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Project Traxxas Summit LT Scale Conversion

In 2009, as the rock crawling segment was off and running (albeit slowly–get it?), Traxxas released the Summit which it dubbed an “extreme terrain monster truck.” Based on the Revo platform, built to take a beating and equipped with features such as remotely locking differentials and a 2-speed transmission that is also controlled from the transmitter, the Summit was–and still is–a basher’s dream come true. There is a lot to like about the Summit, but as soon as I saw one I couldn’t help but think–probably because I had crawling and scalers on the brain–that a more realistic stance would take the truck from cool to killer? After happening upon some Summit builds from other enthusiasts and then talking to a few behind-the-scenes folks at Traxxas, I came up with my Summit LT conversion–a more scale take on Traxxas’ multipurpose off-roader.


  1. Replace suspension arms (upper and lowers) with Slayer Pro arms
  2. Replace steering and suspension links (eight total) with Slayer Pro links
  3. Modify suspension arms as needed for clearance
  4. Replace cantilevers with Progressive-2 cantilevers
  5. Shorten plastic drive shafts
  6. Replace 17mm hexes with 14mm hexes
  7. Swap monster truck tires and wheels for 2.2/3.0 wheels and 2.2 crawler tires

The stock Summit is a monster truck, or as we often say in RC, a MT. While the Summit has a semi-scale body (kinda a cross between a later model Chevy Blazer and a 2-door Jeep Cherokee), it certainly isn’t a model of anything you’d see rolling down the street. My goal with this project was to transform the MT into a vehicle you might just see on the street and the trail. While there is nothing light duty about the Summit, LT–or light truck–seemed to be the most fitting designation for a more realistically proportioned adaptation.

In my opinion, at a little over 18.5 inches at its widest point, the Summit is just too big. Again, its way wide stance is great for bashing, but I knew narrowing the track would provide two very valuable benefits. First, the truck would instantly look more scale. Second, it would be able to go where scalers go–well, at least with a little finesse. Instead of bashing its way down trails, a narrower truck could be maneuvered.

The key to the narrow transformation is the use of Slayer Pro arms and links. That part is pretty simple and a bolt-on affair–well, almost a bolt-on affair. The arms are sold in pairs–an upper and lower arm in each parts bag. There is a parts bag for each corner (see parts list below).


I found that once I had the arms bolted on and started cycling the suspension by hand that the arms needed to have some material removed for clearance. This is because of link placement and because the Summit, with its locking differentials, has gear cases that bulge on one side. I used a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel and a sanding drum to clearance the arms as needed. The arms that need the most attention are the upper and lower arms on the right rear corner and the left front corner, but check the entire suspension setup for equal amounts of up and down travel. The cutting and sanding process is best done slowly (wear eye protection), testing as you go. Doing this modification will ensure the links don’t interfere with the arms and the differential housings don’t rub against the arms, and ultimately allows you to have equal amounts of up and down travel on each side of the suspension and a smooth, consistent suspension.

The switch to the narrower Slayer Pro setup requires the use of the Progressive-2 (90-T) rocker set for the cantilever suspension system, and it’s also important to note that the stock Summit springs will not work. The stock springs will be far too stiff when the leverage of the long arms is lost. I experimented and found the springs listed below to be ideal for my Summit LT, but what is ideal for you is personal preference and dependent on items used for electronics, tires, wheels, etc. The end result, depending on wheel selection, is about six inches narrower than stock!


  • Aluminum Red Push Rod Slayer >> 5918X >> $13 (2X)
  • Rocker arm set, Progressive-2 (90-T) >> 5358 >> $11
  • Spring (tan) >> 5440 >> $6
  • Spring (yellow) >> 5435 >> $6
  • Suspension arm upper and lower (left front) >> 5932X >> $8
  • Suspension arm upper and lower (left rear) >> 5934X >> $8
  • Suspension arm upper and lower (right front) >>5931X >> $8
  • Suspension arm upper and lower (right rear) >> 5933X >> $8
  • Tubes toe links 7075-T6 >> 5939R >>  $22 (2X)

The long Summit driveshafts are an easy fix. I recommend using a rotary tool and a cutoff wheel (remember to use eye protection) to cut down both the male and female pieces. Make sure don’t remove too much material, making the drive shafts too short, or they could pop apart.

Once you get the suspension and driveshafts narrowed up, you have the bulk of the work done, but new none-monster truck tires are definitely needed. I used Pro-Line Interco TSL SX Super Swamper 2.2 tires with the included memory foam. These tires have worked out perfectly. I selected Traxxas’ Slayer Black Beadlock Split-Spoke wheels because they looked good and because you need wheels with a 3″ inner diameter to clear the pivot ball suspension. So, with short course being so popular, you have a number of options as the short course industry standard wheel is 2.2″ outer diameter with a 3″ inner diameter. I removed the Summit 17mm hex hardware and used 14mm aluminum hex adapters to be able to bolt on the Slayer wheels.

Usually we save the “Did You Know?” fun facts for reviews, but this one is too good not to share. It’s a little known–or realized, I guess–fact that the original Slayer is the reason we use 2.2/3.0 wheels as the short course industry standard. The original Slash came with 2.2 wheels–outer and inner diameter. The foam was the same thickness all the way across the tire and the outer and inner sidewalls were the same height. The Slayer with its pivot ball suspension needed a unique wheel and the 2.2/3.0 was born. Even aftermarket companies were already offering 2.2 short course tires and wheels, Traxxas and aftermarket companies essentially ran with the wheel that would fit all trucks instead of having to manufacture two different size short course tires and wheels. So, in the end, a truck that almost never sees the track and is significantly outsold compared to all the electrics, set the industry standard.

To fit the 2.2 Super Swamper tires, I test fit them (“measure twice, cut once”) and found the tire coincidently had a molded-in line that served as a perfect guide. If you go with these tires, you’ll see what I mean. I then cut away at the memory foam until it worked with the 2.2/3.0 wheel. Once everything was glued up, the end result looked as factory as the rest of the Summit LT.


  • Pro-Line Pro-Line Interco TSL SX Super Swamper 2.2″ >> 1166-14 >> $31 (2X)
  • Traxxas Black Beadlock Split-Spoke Wheel >> 5974 >> $8 (2X)
  • Traxxas Wheel Hubs Hex E-Maxx >> 4954R >> $3 (2X)

To really bring the dual purpose nature of the Summit LT to life, I wanted to up the power. I installed a Tekin RX8 1/8-scale brushless system with a matching Tekin T8 2000Kv motor. Because this system is sensored, low speed crawling isn’t compromised, and since it’s built for 1/8-scale use, it’s more than stout enough for the heavy Revo platform. The T8 motor I selected is spec’ed for truggy use which gave me even more confidence putting the system into the heavy Summit LT. The motor and speed control are listed separately below, but you can save some money and buy them as a combo pack. I paired the Tekin system with two 2S 9000mAh LiPo XL packs from MaxAmps.com. These packs, wired in series, provide 4S or 14.8 volts of power.


  • RX8 Speed Control >> TT2300 >> $200
  • T8 2000 Kv motor >> TT2361 >> $180

I also modified the steering system using a GH Racing (Golden Horizons) Aluminum Steering Arm Pin Mount which features no steering throw stops and Pro-Line’s now discontinued Single Servo Arm for the Revo. While the Pro-Line part may prove hard to find, if you do want a single steering servo, STRC offers an aluminum single arm servo mount that is well made and inexpensive (item no. STP6037B). For every little bit of steering throw, I also carefully sanded the main steering arm where it contacts the steering arm mount. For optimized steering power, I added an Axial aluminum servo horn, Traxxas’ heavy-duty servo saver spring and literally stuffed in a Hitec HS-7980TH Monster Torque servo. This servo is a tight fit (be prepared to bust out a file and some elbow grease), but it dishes out 500 oz./in. of torque when matched with the Tekin RX8 6V BEC. Even more torque (600 oz./in.) is possible if you use an external BEC. All of this modifications were done to beef up the steering and to get as much steering throw out of the truck as possible.


  • Axial racing Aluminum Servo Horn >> AX30835 >> $16
  • GH Racing Aluminum Steering Arm Pin Mount >> 2283 >> $15
  • Hitec HS-7980TH >> 37980S >> $175
  • Pro-Line Single Servo Arm >> Discontinued
  • Traxxas Heavy-duty Servo Saver Spring >> 5344X >> $3

I’ve seen enough RC builds–from bolt-on bonanzas to custom creations–to know that just because a project seems like a good idea on paper doesn’t mean it will meet expectations or, heck, even work all that well. I had no idea how the Summit LT concept would handle and I knew that other than looking more scale than the original, it could actually perform poorly. Well, I’ll spare you anymore dramatic lead up–the Summit LT is amazing. It’s tremendous fun.

With the 2000Kv Tekin brushless system, it’s fast, but better than just being fast, the Summit LT can completely handle the speed. The Summit LT doesn’t get sketchy at full speed like you might expect since it’s narrower than stock but essentially just as heavy. Overall, it’s easy to control–even with the trigger buried. I’ve driven the truck on grass, dirt, gravel and at the race track and it always exceeds my expectations. That Revo-style suspension just works when it comes to soaking up bumps and jumps.

Speaking of jumps. The Summit LT can also get airborne. In fact, it goes through the air just as well as the average basher and lands without issue. Some trucks fly well but upon meeting the ground take awkward bounces careening to the left, right or back up with a donkey kick. In contrast, the Summit LT is a great jumper. It might not be the first truck I would grab for a trip to a skatepark or BMX track, but I’ve launched it off my bigger wooden test ramp and even ripped laps around an RC track. The Summit LT receives fairly high marks for this kind of jumping. It can’t jump with the finesse of a short course truck, but it will out jump any dedicated crawler that I have ever seen.

With high speed handling and jumping covered, it’s time to shift gears figuratively and literally. When you lock the diffs and shift into low gear, the Summit LT can crawl. I don’t care what any jaded purists say, the Summit LT can actually crawl. Is it a comp crawler? No, but it isn’t designed for that kind of use–that specific and singular use–at all. My answer to that is a close-minded argument is in the “Summit LT in Action — Can Your Crawler Do This?” video. So, the Summit LT crawls, but how well does it crawl? It has plenty of power and torque thanks to the big motor and the 70:1 final drive ratio. When you combine that with capable tires such as the G8 compound Pro-Line tires, the Summit LT can climb rocks. Now that it’s much narrower than stock, you can actually maneuver the truck and not just bash your way over rocks relying more on speed than crawling ability. The Summit LT drives and behaves like a proper scale crawler and not a monster truck. On the rocks, it’s a whole different beast than the original Summit. Better put, in a good way, it’s less of a beast. It’s two biggest handicaps on the rocks are its fairly high center of gravity and its long wheelbase. Like a lot of other scale crawlers, it can tip over backwards when the going gets too steep. The long wheelbase simply and expectedly hampers maneuverability. While the high CG is what it is and probably not all that worse than many other scalers and smart use of the locking and unlocking differentials greatly improves the Summit LT’s turning radius.

Special Thanks!
In addition to all of the companies below that supplied parts, I would be completely remiss if I didn’t thank Traxxas not only for providing many parts, but also for their technical support. I would also like to thank Bill Zegers of Zegers RC Graffixx for the paint work.



Axial Racing
GH Racing
Pro-Line Racing
Zegers RC Graffixx

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  1. Hi Matt,
    Very cool, how wide is this Truck?
    Might look very cool with a Shortcourse Body.

    1. My setup is 12.5 in. wide. The stock Traxxas Summit is about 18.5 in. For comparison, my modified Axial Wraith is 12 in. wide which is about a solid inch wider than a stock Wraith. So, the Summit LT is still wide, but pretty close to many other 2.2 scalers.

  2. Hey Matt, I have a Tundra hard shell body that might fit that? Interested? I’ve had it for awhile, be cool to see it used. I’ll have to check the wheel base.

    1. While the end result is a big transformation, it really isn’t that difficult. You will need a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel and sanding drum (wear good safety glasses–the cutoff wheels break and the sanding drums fling melted plastic). Modifying the suspension arms and driveshafts is pretty easy if you take your time. The other stuff is pretty much bolt-on.

  3. Hey there Matt, very interesting path you have gone. I get the bolt on stuff, i get the sanding and cutting off bits, but y did you swap to a single steering system rather than a double.

    Also im going to need an educated opinion as my summit has got all the features an out of the box has but I have placed FPV camera/receiver, 7 switch controller to control all the lights for night time crawling placed in a tiny rubber sealed lunch box that fits on top of the truck.

    All these extra features means more channels so i placed a Dx7S receiver in another tiny rubber sealed lunch box and mounted on the rear body post mounts as this receiver is a lil too big for the std receiver case that comes with the summit.

    All wires leading to the dx7s receiver run inside the battery cabin and through the vent ports and to the rear body post into the lunch box which I then sealed with sealant so water doesn’t get inside the box.

    All the FPV wires and light wiring are mounted inside the body so they don’t hang and look confusing all heading to the top lunch box which once again is sealed with sealant.

    In short if the std summit weighed 5kg without wheels, mine atm would weigh about 7kg without wheels and was wondering if after all these upgrades would your setup be able to take the weight.

    1. I used one servo because I found it easier than trying to get two high power servos to work together. If everything isn’t set up perfectly, the two servos can end up fighting each other which would lead to a shorter life. With normal analog servos, it’s no big deal, but it is with two high-zoot digital servos.

      To answer you question: As you probably already know, I would go with higher rate (stiffer) springs but wouldn’t bother messing with shock fluid. If you’re running an LT conversion, the stock springs may be just right with the extra weight, but I wouldn’t be too surprised if you still had to go to lighter rate springs. If you’re running a standard Summit, you can start experimenting one rating up at a time. Besides changing springs for the added weight, you may have to look into new tire foams. If the heavy truck completely flattens out the tires, handling will really suffer. If you can find desner foam to help support the weight, check out fabric stores. I foam a decent variety there when I needed to make foam inserts for another project.

      Good luck. Your truck sounds cool.

      1. Cool thanks for the info. Ill look into spring ratings and types of foam before I go ahead and by all the slayer pro parts needed.

  4. Hey Matt, I was wondering if you stuck to the same short and long half shaft axle for the summit or did u change them to shorter axles??????? And if so which shrot axles did u use??????

  5. Hey matt, just finished up my summit LT, not a bad result. Im still using the 17mm hex combined with tamiya 3.0 wheels and an axial rock crawler tyre. Had to trim about 2mm of the top and bottom of the axle carriers to fit the tamiya wheel. But other wise no worries.

    NOTE – A Arms arnt as flexible as they used to be. Is it cause they are shorter, and any recommendations to get it to flex????

    1. You need to switch spring for more flex. The stock springs work with the longer arms because the longer arms have more leverage. Let me know if you need more help.

      1. I hooked up the softest WHITE springs i found. The rear seems to be flexing fine, just the front seems to be a lil stiff somewere between the shock links, the a arms and the front tranny where the upper a arms r mounted. If you closely have a look left front a arm hits thesuspension link as well as the gearbox, restricting access.ill post some fotos of these problems give u a better undrstanding.

  6. Thank you so much for the info. I was thinking about doing the same thing but didn’t know how I would even began.I don’t understand why traxxas hasn’t done this conversion for us as a RTR. I’m selling my mod clodbuster , mod CR01, losi LST and my tuber comp crawler to get a summit so I can do this conversion. Thank again. Tom

    1. That’s cool to hear, Tom, but, wow, you’re really unloading your collection. Make sure you don’t get rid of anything you’ll miss! You will, however, love the modded Summit LT. You’ll have a ton of fun with it and you’ll unlikely to get bored with it since it’s so versatile. Thanks for checking out RC Truck Stop and good luck with your project. Please send photos when you’re done!

  7. Hey Matt. I’ll still have my SCX10 with the 2spd trans and a scaled down 2spd Juggernaut 2. The Summit will take the place of the Clod and LST. Plus it seems pretty cool. I’ve been doing the for almost 25 years also so I’m not new to custom work just didn’t’ know where to start and I needed to liquidate some of my RCs stuff anyway. Oh!, I think a Ford body would look cool on top of there. Tom

  8. That’s a cool project and am thinking about doing that to my summit. I have a couple questions for you if you don’t mind. 1st do the tires rub on the body at any point with the suspension compressed or turning? 2nd did you change the pinion size on the motor to compesate for the higher kv or wheel diameter? Thank You

    1. Great questions. No, the tires I am using do not rub at full compression–even when steering. To answer your second question, I have, indeed, experimented with gearing. I have had three motor systems in it–stock, a Castle Creations system and the Tekin that is still in it. After messing around with pinions, I believe I am back to using the stock pinion with no temp issues.

  9. Thank you for the quick response. I just ordered all the parts for this transformation it is going to be sweet.

  10. Hi Matt. Just got my Summit (the black one) today. Wow! that thing is almost too pretty to take apart or get dirty. The suspension is plush. Will it still be that plush when the conversion is done? The sheer size and the suspension remind me of the LST I had (it sold on Bakersfield craigslist but the Clod Buster , CR-01 and Tuber Hasn’t).
    Sense the last time I talked to you I bought a “Trail Finder 2” (fun truck),so I’ll have to wait to do the conversion. It’s still gunna get done, just not as soon as I thought. I might run the new taller Rock Beast tires. I have a set of the Super Swampers but I’ll buy another set to cut them up. Did you “weight” the wheel like we normally do with crawlers ? Tom

    1. Hello, Tom. I definitely suggest putting a few miles of the Summit stock before tearing it apart. After doing the conversion, it will take some experimenting with different springs to get the right feel out of the suspension. I went with springs that provide proper plushness to handle jumps, but were stiff enough to keep the suspension collapsing too easily on the rocks. When I had it too soft the truck just dragged its center over the rocks too much. Like I said, it took some experimenting. I think the taller Rock Beasts will be perfect. I did not weight the wheels. Have fun with that RC4WD Trail Finder 2.

  11. Hi Matt. I now have everything to do the Lt swap. Instead of cutting the stock summit drive shafts, will the slayers fit? I bought the HPI extended 1978 F250 body. It fits perfect. Wheel base and width. Its a little wider so it will look more scale. Thanks Tom


    1. The reason I didn’t use Slayer Pro shafts was because one side would be too long. The Summit transmission is wider on one side due to the internal locker. You can try it, but I do not believe it will work.

  12. Hi Matt. A question on summits and emaxx’s. I have a emaxx tranny in my juggernaut 2. Is the summit first gear lower than the emaxx’s first gear? If it is I’m going to put one in there. I would ask but I couldn’t find an answer anywhere on the web I do know the summit is 1/70. Thanks Tom

    1. I believe the final drive ratio, in 1st gear, on the E-Maxx is 29:1. Don’t mean to sound like I’m blowing off getting you an answer, but I highly suggest calling Traxxas’ customer service number (1-888-TRAXXAS). They’ll give you the guaranteed right information.

  13. Hey matt, have you considered using proline SC beadlocks for this project. Should save u some money on the long run when you wont have to change wheels just the tires?????

    1. That’s a great suggestion. Thank you. I have looked, but I believe they only offer 12 mm hex wheels right now and I use 14 mm hexes. I believe the thicker axles would require too large of a hole to be drilled through standard 12 mm hexes.

      1. Fair enough, on the conterary i have found hubs from kyosho the look similar to the summit hubs but shorter in height. Makes it just right to install beadlock 2.2 wheels on a 12mm hex. Mind u the hex center has to be drilled and gotta make sure its aluminium

  14. Hey Matt, sweet truck. I am throwing around the idea of making a IFS rock racer with a summit front end (for the selectable locker) and the lt conversion looks perfect to make that happen.

    I was curious if you know the hub to hub or WMS to WMS width of the front end. The whole project hinges on me finding rear axle of the correct width and ratio to work with.

  15. Hi! Would you mind telling me the new dimensions of the Summit? I mean – width, length and wheelbase of course didn’t change after conversion? I am thinking about some competition 🙂

    1. Great question. I didn’t measure the exact amount I removed, unfortunately. I can tell you that you need to remove less than you might think. I suggest removing a small amount from both pieces and testing the suspension up and down travel for binding. It’s important to not that the shafts are not the same length on both sides of each differential. The reason for this is because of the selectable lockers. I point this out because when I first built this project, I cut one axle to length and used that to measure out the other three axles. As luck would have it, the sample I used was one of the short lengths. And, I had probably cut the first one that served as my sample a little on the short side, which meant two lengths were really too short. While these never failed, I eventually ended up getting new stock shafts and recutting them. As far as actually cutting the plastic, I found that Craftsman Accu-Cut pliers do a great job (these are perfect for cutting body posts as well). I hope this info helps.

        1. 1/2 inch is about right. I believe I removed a little more. The key is to use the wheel as a guide. Hold it up to the back of the tire, make sure it’s centered and trace your guideline. It is, however, crucial that you cut below that guideline so that you have enough material to put in the wheel’s bead area and glue.

          1. Hi
            I was wondering how much in length (of bead) do you need save when you the bead and would proline f11 short corse wheels work with mil spec tires?

  16. hi
    i was wondering if axial 2.2 bead lock wheels part number( AX8092) if the inner part of the wheel would rub on the stock summit axle carriers.

      1. is there such a thing as 3.0 wheels and tires because I’m not to sure about butchering up nice new tires.if there isn’t such a thing as a 3.0 tire could rc4wd 2.2 tires fit on the slayers stock wheel.

  17. This is how the Summit should come stock in my opinion! I can’t get this convertion done fast enough! I’m a bit concerned about the tire/wheel options. I dont want to have to cut beads. I’ll screw that up, lol. Do 2.2 tires fit on those Slayer wheels? Great project! Thanks keep up the great work!

    1. Thank you very much for the compliments and thank you very much for visiting RC Truck Stop. 2.2 tires really won’t work on the Slayer wheel. If the compound is soft, you might be able to stretch the 2.2 tire over the 3.0 inner bead, but you could tear the tire and if you did manage to get it to fit, the tire would most likely be all sorts of distorted. I suggest using body scissors to cut a set of tires. There are guys out there that specialize in modifying tires. You’ll pay more, but you can be sure to get exactly what you want without the risk of trashing a set of expensive tires.

      1. do you know who modifies tires? i have the prob as rick . i would like to get rc4wd 2.2 Mickey Thompson to fit axial 3.0 2.2 wheels

  18. Matt,I love my summit and I love the sound of this conversion kit.you mention trimming the arms,just what exactly do you need to trim, and also if I wanted to convert it in to a slash would I be able to swap out the front and rear locking diffs with the stock slash diffs as well as the transmission to make it a 100% short coarse ready when I want it to be?

    1. Hi, Jeff. Some of the bracing in the arms needs to be trimmed off and the arms need to get hit with a sanding drum for clearance around the links as needed. And the best to see where and how much needs to be ground off is to mount the new shorter arms and cycle the suspension by hand. I took away just enough material that each arm moved up and down through its entire range of motion without any binding.

      I am not sure if Slayer diffs (those are the ones you’d want to use) will fit in the Summit bulkheads which are designed to house the locking diffs, which are wider on one side. You could swap in Slayer bulkheads and make it an electric Slayer. Back in the day, I converted a nitro-powered Slayer to an electric short course truck. It was sick.

      1. Thank you Matt,you have been very helpful,and here in the near future I will be converting my summit .I’m currently working on my 4-tech.

          1. Nitro 3.3 got it for 150 bucks of Craig’s list. the guy I bought it off put 4 tanks of fuel through it.

          2. Matt,it’s crazy fast.ive got to soften the suspension on it.my summit is awaiting new diff gears I blew me apart,I got a 19 tooth pinion and 54 tooth spur with a dynamite fuze 130amp/1,800 kv brushless system.im goin for land speed records lol.

  19. I know the LT has the “scale” look compared to the stock Summit with its huge tires and extended a-arms. But Side by side, how would a stock Summit climb, jump, race etc. compared to the LT in the video? From what I can gather from this mod, it gives the Summit a closer to Scale look, and feel. Whereas the Stock Summit, with its bigger tires and wider stance hast to bound over certain terrain that the LT could maneuver around. I personally think the LT looks really cool, but not sure if that’s just it…looking cool, versus actual performance over the Stock. BTW I do own a Summit, and would be really interested to hear your reply.

    1. That’s an interesting way to come at this, James. You’re absolutely right in that the main point of this conversion is to get a new look. The one area the LT version out performs the stock Summit is being able to go off-road with any sort of finesse. When I had a stock Summit, I actually got kind of bored with it. I thought the 2-speed and locking differentials were kind of pointless (or at least unneeded) with the stock setup because it really only worked well as a basher. As you said, the Summit has to bound over obstacles. With the Summit LT, you can pick and choose your line. Of course, you can drive the stock Summit slowly, but it’s still so big that it’s hitting just about everything in sight.

      One way I look at it is to think of rock crawlers. When rock crawling started, everyone built big Super class crawlers, but as soon as a few small 2.2 crawlers started popping up, everyone built those and 2.2 literally became the bulk of the crawling segment even though they couldn’t conquer the same terrain. Interestingly, in no time, 2.2s improved so that they could pretty much do everything bigger Supers could do as all the advancement in crawling was aimed at the much more popular 2.2 class. Then as 2.2s became more about highly technical setups, very methodical driving, all while losing scale realism, scalers took over. My point is that even though the Supers can out crawl the other classes/types of crawlers, people are all building scalers (the least capable of the three).

      For me, the stock Summit just doesn’t do it for me. The Summit LT, however, is one of my most loved vehicles in my collection. It is just crazy fun.

      I don’t feel like I’ve really answered your question. Because it’s narrower and not as stable, not really any faster (mine but I canged the power system), I’m not sure an LT does anything better. It is far more durable, as the smaller tires do not destroy the diffs, and since I changed the tires, it does have more grip. I think I have to go find someone with a stock Summit and see how they heads up stack up.

  20. I just finished my summit LT convertion. It is worth mentioning that the Slayer and the Slayer Pro have different length swing arms. I screwed up and ordered 2 sets of Slayer arms and 2 sets of Slayer pro arms. I opted to cut down the slayer pro arms to match the regular Slayer arms. Then i had to cut and rethread some of the links from the Slayer Pro link set to fit the shorter Slayer arms. In the end it worked great. You can use the regular slayer arms without any binding or body rub. It works and looks Fantastic! Thanks Matt!!!

    1. Hey Rick.
      Does the tires tuck under the body
      alot better than using the regular Slayer arms as apposed to the pro
      arms? Does the tires hit at full
      turn ?. Is there the same amount of modification on on either arms (pro or regular)? Thank you. Tom

  21. Is it better to fill your tires withh nitrogen instead oof air.
    In making ready for this interest-gone-opposition, it’s excellent to know that
    you can acquire RC cars which are previously set up for drifting, such aas the Sprint 2 Drift car from
    HPI, or you can customize any 4 wheel generate (4wd) on-road, touring type
    automobile. Each component or method you decide upon will hav its own benefits and trade-offs.

  22. Awesome project, but how awesomer would it be with some exhaust notes. That’s my biggest thing with electric, I miss the combustion noise/sound. I have the big Summit and the small e Revo brushless.

  23. So how much to do like the tekin setup? And what kv motor are you using? I thought about the 1700kv for my summit bot I have huge tires

  24. Hi Matt,

    You still have the Summit LT? If you ever want to sell it I’m a buyer.


  25. Read all the info I could find, including these comments, seems as tho no one has issues figuring out how much to cut off each half of the summit drive shafts.

    Is their an actual measurement to cut off each half of the summit drive shafts?

    1. It varies on each side because the locking mechanism in the differential makes one of side of the case longer. When I first built mine, I over cut and two of the four driveshafts easily pulled part when driving. You can go ahead and cut and check. I can get you measurements, but not until next week unfortunately.

      1. I did the front last nite, I understand now why no one has left actual measurements, I did go ahead and photograph in mm a general starting point… I took my first set of pics after cutting the right side, but the left side proved to be slightly different, as binding occurred and I end up cutting the male splined shaft a tad shorter, than I did on the right side.

        I am sticking with the one set of measurements I initially did for the right side which was for the front, I will do the rears tonite and tomorrow, but will approach them by removing or cutting a little at a time, until I know if they will match the front measurements.

        I did not write those measurements down for the fronts but do have pics showing the measurements on the digital calipers, once I get the truck done I will edit the pics and share my measurements here.

        I am surprised at how short I had to cut the male shafts if they are even a bit to long they binds up, also I removed the two shaft stops on opposing sides of the male shafts, easy enuff to do with an exacto knife they are very hard to see even with the naked eye, took me a while to figure out why the female shaft would stop and not come all the way down the male shaft, and when it did it would slip over the top of those two splines then get locked slightly.

        ^^if you know what I am talking about their….thanks for your response…for anyone else cutting the shafts take it slow and expect to test fit and tear down many times, till the suspension floats freely….. : )

  26. I am just going to give my longest shaft cut length, @ left rear… as every one was slightly different, and figured giving the longest shaft will be a safe starting point then trim to fit from their.

    Female shaft half 53.50 mm
    Male splinned shaft half mated to the female shaft above 63.67 mm

    Both halves put together, and fully compressed 83.oo mm

    Those measurements are of the plastic shafts only and do not include any of the attached metal threaded axle.

    Where the arm braces were hitting the buldge on the bulkhead from the diff lock outs I just cut those braces out, the arms feel plenty stiff and I do not expect any problems, not sure if Matt, or others did the same thing?

  27. Hi,

    I liked the conversion and I started to doing it but the only concern is the drive shaft can I just bolt in Slayer pro drive shaft if possible ?

  28. Tubes toe links 7075-T6 >> 5939R >> $22 (2X)
    are these necessary?

    would the cheaper 5939 standard ones work? they are less than half price for the cheaper ones.

  29. Great info here. I bought my Summit for a tow/chase truck for the baja scratch build cars I make. To be sure I get you correctly, your rig is 12-1/2″ outside of the tires, right? What is the offset of the rims you run, similar to a Slash? I was going to build new metal arms to narrow the track, then a forum I was on mentioned looking up the lt. Saves me a grip of time and its bolt on, and hits my dimensional criteria. How cool is that!! Anyhow, thanks for the informative build thread.

  30. Thanks Matt! What a great conversion. I converted about several months ago and still very happy with my LT. I like it much more than stock Summit. I do not have TRX4 but it looks to me like this same or at least similar idea brought to life by Traxxas.

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