STRC Carbon-Steel Universal Center Driveshaft Kit for Axial Wraith Review

wriath cent hard steel

If you have upgraded the motor in your Axial Wraith you may have come across the “pretzel effect.” You know; it’s what your stock drive shafts look like after too much power and tough terrain come together. It’s not a pretty sight. If this has happened to you, it’s time to upgrade those driveshafts to something better and ST Racing concepts (STRC) has you covered.

The kit includes everything needed to replace the front and rear driveshafts. Overall, the design is similar to the stock Axial WB8 Wild Boar driveshafts, but are CNC-machined heat treated carbon steel, which is far stronger than plastic.  And while these shafts add weight, the weight is low and anybody upgrading to these is doing so knowing the metal material is far more durable than the stock plastic shafts.

When used with the Wraith, modifications are not needed for install. They also fit Axial’s SCX10 Jeep Rubicon and G6, but are too long for the shorter wheelbase SCX10s such as the Dingo. Speaking of compatibility, STRC points out that SCX10 Deadbolt, requires  picking up a little pack of Axial’s M3x11mm (part number Axial AXA0175).

This kit is part number STA80084 and is available for $65.



When you lay out the parts for assembly, make sure the ends match the inner shafts. The longer ended CV shaft end goes with the inner spline shaft (female), and the shorter ended CV shaft end goes with the outer spline shaft (male).


For illustration purpose, I’ve disconnected the two ends to show you that you need to make sure that the set screw bottoms out on the flat side machined into the cross pin. If it isn’t, the pin can fall out. Use thread locking compount on the set screw.


When you spline the two shaft together, make sure both ends line up with each other. Using the set screw is the best way as a match up point. Seen above, this is the correct assembly. This is called phasing the driveshaft.


If you don’t line up the two ends and the driveshaft is out of phase, it could cause your vehicle to “shimmy” at lower speeds. It also puts extra strain on the driveline components. Having everything inline and better balanced will ensure a smoother operating drivetrain. The setup will be more efficient and wear better. I ran into an out-of-phase problem without even knowing it with the stock shafts. After realizing nothing else changed with the maintenance I had performed on a previous build, it quickly came apparent that the shafts came off center. With a traditional “yoke” style shaft assembly, it is much worse. CVs, while they are smoother and can operate at tighter angles, they still need to be in sync for optimal performance.


wriath cent steel 2  wriath cent steel 3

Even though I haven’t upgraded the power plant yet in my Wraith,  I plan to in the near future and I have twisted driveshafts, even with stock power on tap. With more power in my rig’s future, knowing ahead of time that I have more a durable driveline does make my choices for motors a lot more favorable.

There is no modification or extra parts necessary on this one. Big points in our books. It’s very easy to install and is a direct bolt on replacement. Overall, there’s no big surprise here; the STRC driveshafts make a great improvement to the durability of the drivetrain. I certainly recommend this upgrade. Even if it’s the first upgrade you do to your Wraith, you’ll be thankful later.

ST Racing Concepts




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  1. make sure if you use these with a robinson soild diff gear that you put in LONG set screws, using thse on my Monster and had the set screws back out. Blue Loc-tite is your friend. no other issues other than throwing the shaft due to the set screws backing out

  2. Hey Chris Marsh, yes thread lock is a must in almost every major drive train component, my shafts didn’t use short set screws, I installed the factory long set screws. Been running solid since.

  3. AWESOME that your having a great time with these , i on the other hand have been having issues with them. even with using loc tite blue, and fazing the shafts. i still have thrown out the drive pins 4 times. lucky for me i had the correct sized drill bit and a dremel. I am planing to tear them back down and redo them like your article says, so that way maybe i can be worry free

  4. I have had similar issues with other CV style axles with the cross pin coming out. In those cases I’ve used heat shrink around each end of the CV to “retain” the pin on both sides. You just need heat shrink with a large enough “ID” to slip over the shaft ends. There should be enough clearance on the Wraith to do all four cross pin sections.

  5. How sad that this poor company had to copy MIP drives 95% The other 5% is the failure your seeing due to materials and heat treating that STRC knows nothing about! Good luck with them.

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