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7 Ways to Cheat at MudBoss Racing


MudBoss racing with relatively stock Traxxas Slash trucks converted into Eastern Dirt Modifieds is one of the more popular spec classes in all of RC right now. While there are what we’ll call some subclasses and variety in MudBoss racing, almost every track offers Sportsman MudBoss, where again, the cars are essentially stock and it’s a true spec class. But, how to you get an edge if everyone has the same motor, limited suspension options and a battery limit is in place? You could practice and continue to dial in your setup . . . or you could cheat.

Most Sportsman MudBoss racing is limited to 50C packs. This rule keeps costs down and levels the playing field–great for spec racing. Much higher C-Racing packs are available, however. Know what delivers way more punch than a 50C pack? A 120C pack. Know what makes a 120C pack into a “legal” 50C pack? Just the label–not the the size, not the weight. A 50C label carefully pulled off one pack and re-adhered to a 120C pack is all it takes to pass tech at a club race.

The Sportsman class requires the use of only Traxxas factory tires. No, S1 compound allowed. Want to be able to dive deeper into corners than your competitors? Want to do that without traction rolling? Try a stiffer right front insert. Traxxas sells the Slash tires unmounted. The tires include white open-cell foams, but you’ll only need a small piece of that stock foam. Traxxas also sells all of the Slash wheels. Mount the stock tires to the stock wheels, but use a molded closed-cell foam instead. There are a variety of manufacturers and these are much firmer and will help prevent the tire from rolling over itself when cornering. To pass tech, glue a piece of stock foam to the inside of the wheel over the vent hole. This will prevent the foam you’re actually using from easily being identified.

When Traxxas started offering its brushless-powered VLX editions of vehicles using the Magnum 272 transmission, it switched to all metal internal gears. And, while the metal gears are far more durable than the original plastic gears, they also weigh more. Unfortunately, rotational mass robs power far more than static weight. If you want better–significantly better–acceleration out of the corners, switch to plastic gears. Switching to plastic gears gives a huge advantage and they are more than strong to withstand the stock Titan 12T motor.

Springs are a quick and easy way to make a big difference in handling, but the Sportsman class specifically limits racers to stock Slash springs. You can cut them, but you can’t change the rate. But, if you want to run different springs, all you need is a can of white spray paint. Odds are they aren’t using calipers to tech springs and the tolerances probably aren’t tight enough on the stock coated springs for that to work anyway. Don’t think the painting trick will work? Try Traxxas springs that are already white, such as Bandit and Rustler springs. Be warned: more than one racer has been caught with the wrong springs and at least one racer has been caught more than once. The usual giveaway on cheater springs, however, is the absence of the progressive coils found on the stock Slash springs.

The stock Traxxas rubber-sealed bearings are actually pretty good. They’re perfect for bashing and up to the task for most racing, but in spec racing, where every advantage matters, the rubber seals and packed-in grease isn’t as fast as no-contact seal, oiled ceramic bearings. Keep in mind the stock bearings have an easy-to-spot blue rubber seal, so if you can’t find ceramic bearings with blue seals, only use them in the transmission.

Sportsman MudBoss rules prohibit the use of tire dope or traction additive other than cleaners such as Simple Green. These days, many tracks smell like chemical factories with all the tire sauce being used. Banning it in Sportsman MudBoss means racers can concentrate on setup and driving and not which magic sauce is the latest must-have. The concept is good, but the reason so many racers use tire dope is because the stuff works. So, if you want more traction and, thus, better acceleration, grab a bottle of odorless traction compound. Credit to BJ Hipskind on this one. He’s not using it; he just reminded me of it.

The Salvas MUDboss rules require, get this, a genuine Salvas MUDBoss body. Everyone running the same body levels the playing field, which is the whole point of a spec class. Salvas MUDboss bodies are made out of thick Lexan that’s designed to be durable and able to withstand the abuse inherent to dirt oval racing. Heavy-duty Lexan is, however, heavy, and that weight hurts acceleration and hampers handling. If you don’t see calipers at tech inspection, you can probably get away with a bootleg body made out of thinner Lexan. Oval cars are almost always accelerating and if you know even basic physics, you know mass hugely influences acceleration. Lighter cars accelerate faster. Mass also impacts center of gravity, which impacts handling. It’s worth noting that new Salvas MUDboss bodies have an engraved “S” on the A pillar and include an ID sticker.

Two important notes: first, the purpose of this article isn’t really to teach you how to cheat. The idea is to expose common cheating methods. Cheaters are a lot less likely to be able to get away with these malicious methods if they aren’t a mystery. Don’t cheat. Don’t cheat because it’s wrong, ruins racing and because you’ll get caught. Maybe this article will expose some secrets and hopefully it will lead to some rule-wreckers getting caught. It might hopefully also serve as a deterrent and remove the temptation from current rule abiders. No sense in trying something if you know people will be looking for it.

Second, and this is really important, not everyone who beats you is cheating. Get that idea out of your head. In fact, very few racers are purposefully cheating. You’re just slow. Just kidding, but the point is please don’t start with the finger pointing the second you go a lap down. A talented racer with a spot-on setup is going to be way faster than the competition–especially if that competition hits the inside wall, outside wall, every other car and generally isn’t driving a smooth line in and out of corners. Maintain your equipment, dial in your setup, drive cleanly and practice a lot. Bottom line: Don’t cheat!


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